What to know about Julian Klausner & ‘New Dries (Van Noten)'

In the battle against slumping luxury sales, fashion’s musical chairs game has been reaching a frantic pitch – it’s actually giving Twister. Matthieu Blazy hopped from Bottega to Chanel – leaving an opening for Louise Trotter to move on from Carven. John Galliano took his hands off of Margiela, but keeps us in suspense as to his next play. And here in Belgium, Julian Klausner stays in place on the mat, both arms and legs more firmly than ever planted on Dries Van Noten as he becomes the long-awaited first new creative director since Dries himself. If it’s hard to see past all the entangled limbs and pendulum swings, let’s zoom in on Klausner for a moment and find out what you need to know.

Julian Klausner is not new to DVN, he joined the brand in 2018 and became its head of womenswear in 2019, working in close tandem with Dries for six years. The confirmation of Julian’s promotion was hotly anticipated after the March 2024 announcement of the OG Antwerp Six member’s retirement from the house he built over nearly four decades. Names were flying after Dries’s final June 2024 Men’s SS25 show, but in the end it was Klausner’s that won out. A succession statement was put out on December 9 and the fashion rumour mill quieted down – for like, 20 business minutes.

BRUSSELS BEGINNINGS

Before joining the DVN ranks, Belgian designer with American roots Julian Klausner (33) graduated with a Master’s in Fashion Design from La Cambre, the respected fashion school in Brussels, in 2016. He now joins the ranks of his fellow La Cambre alumni with coveted CD positions like Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, Nicolas Di Felice at Courrèges, Julien Dossena at Paco Rabanne and Marine Serre and Ester Manas with their own successful labels. Julian completed internships at Thom Browne and Kenzo, before landing a position as junior designer at Maison Margiela women’s ready-to-wear after graduating. Known for his low-key presence, Klausner has already garnered praise for his meticulous attention to detail and the emotional depth he brings to his designs. In the words of La Cambre head Tony Delcampe in Le Vif Weekend: “Anyone who knows him will attest to how composed he is... Truly, an elegant man who could be considered Dries Van Noten’s spiritual heir!” The DVN-shaped tea leaves are there when you look at his 2016 graduation collection.

(c) Julian Klausner 2016 - photography: Victor Pattyn

LEGACY & LACE

Julian himself has emphasised that his goal is not to replicate his predecessor but to push the brand forward while maintaining its spirit. “I am beyond thrilled to oversee the upcoming seasons as we begin the next chapter for this house. The incomparable legacy that Dries is leaving behind is monumental, serving as an endless source of precious inspiration. I look forward to embarking on new ambitious challenges while honouring the heritage we all cherish”, Klausner said in a statement. The Dries Van Noten SS25 Women’s show, which was created by the studio team, hinted a little at new directions (the emphasis on lacey lingerie-inspired details) but was still mostly a respectful stagesetter during a time of transition.

NEW DRIES

Klausner’s first project as creative director for ‘New Dries’ will launch in January 2025 with a menswear lookbook directed by him, followed by a full womenswear runway presentation during Fashion Week on March 5 2025. He will be one of eight designers making their debuts at global brands in the new year. Plus ça change!