Can you hear the Rubicon rush behind you? That’s the sound of fashion history freshly made. As co-creative directors of Prada, on the same footing, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have now officially shared their first vision of ‘Prafda’. Since the February announcement of this canonical pairing, fashion watchers and participants alike have held their breath. Now, we can all exhale (1,5 metres apart, in open air and mask firmly in place). Like any self-respecting early-aughts club banger would map out: ‘Antwerp to Milano’, here’s what went down at the digital event of the season.
THE SET
Seeing as how this was never originally meant to be a digital-only event, the embracing of live-streaming tech heavily dominated the scene of the show. After Prada already presented their SS21 men’s show as a digital group installation earlier this year (featuring films by Willy Vanderperre, Juergen Teller, Terence Nance, Martine Syms and Joanna Piotrowska), the theme of camera domination continued. Prafda greeted us in a creamy, draped yellow room – perhaps a nod to the curtain-heavy ‘waiting room’ From Lynch’s Twin Peaks? With Raf being an avid film buff (from the very start in 1995, he used film presentations to showcase his collections), and Miuccia just as much so, the multitude of live-stream cameras – set pieces in their own right – felt appropriate.
THE CLOTHES
Now, for the main meal. Over an entrancing Richie Hawtin soundtrack of droning, booming and percussive sounds (reminiscent of those 528 Hz ‘healing’ YouTube videos), the show unfolded with a line-up of ‘metaphorical uniforms’. Stern-looking models came out clutching their coats like safety blankets (just like in Raf’s final Jil Sander show) with button-fastened pouches attached on the back. Nary a roundtoed shoe in sight, the footwear honed in on racer kitten-heel slingback pumps (a decades-long Prada staple as well as an immediate flashback to Raf’s Dior days) and what became immediately obvious was that this show would be a study on the Prada logo. The iconic upside-down pyramid was repeated, outlined and deconstructed as rosette appliqués, logo prints, earcuffs, earrings and burned into your retina as fresh-faced models (master Pat McGrath at work) broke the fourth wall and stared right into the viewers’ eyes. Polka dot trousers cut beautifully from light technical fabrics matched with shirts buttoned up severely, as the lapel-clutching continued. A serious show, for serious times. The turtleneck knits with hole cutouts (an instant add-to-cart) whispered ‘Raf’ as the nylon midi skirts murmured ‘Miuccia’, which was a crucial part of the enjoyment to be had here: imagining two titans pouring over a sketchbook together. It’s the Coke Zero and nervous rooftop smoking mixed with fresh Koolhaas-designed pasta energy for me. Particular standouts were the ink blue moiré round-shoulder long coat and the invigorating combination of yellow, blue, orange, pink and white in look 21. The protective nature of the insistent coat-clutching also seemed on-par with the times.
Then, more Raf-isms and Prada-ness: the word ‘Panorama’ emblazoned on duchesse satin tunic gowns, invitations to a faraway future featuring ‘the Sentient ones’ and ‘the Arrival ones’ – which calls back to the sci-fi themes presented in Raf Simons AW20 menswear. Then, iterations of the 70s square retro print Prada is known for, overwritten by Raf’s cryptic slogans - followed by print hoodies (one person on the TL used a Miranda Priestly ‘groundbreaking’ meme to describe this and they are going to fashion jail). Prada, of course, thrives on the sale of accessories, so there were nylon backpacks, logo buckle belts and sleek handheld satchels aplenty. There was a lot presented at once, but it was not overpowered by any single idea. It felt like a true conversation throughout, by two heavyweights who truly appreciate one another. ‘Pride in individuality’ is the Raf Simons creed, but that doesn’t negate how these uniform-like clothes will stand out on the streets and in webshop lookbooks clamouring to be added to baskets. This will most likely sell very well, which is, after all, the point.
Whether you were hoping for the modernist romance of Raf’s Dior, his Americana symbolism at CK or colour-bursting minimalism from the Jil Sander days – you will either relish in or veer away from what he’s brought to Prada. Regardless, the way he’s able to sublimate the DNA of these widely differing brands remains ever impressive. The fact that this show still happened at all, despite C***id-19, and is also very much still ‘Prada’, is noteworthy. And if only for its collectable value, this collection will enter the fashion pantheon and go on to represent a new chapter in the ever-expanding designer collaboration concept.
THE AFTERMATH
After the show wrapped, Miuccia and Raf sat down for #AskMiucciaAndRaf and answered questions that people around the world sent in beforehand (the way my last-minute send-in was ignominiously ignored… chile, anyways). Before we delve into what the duo had to share, seeing them interact confirmed to me how this partnership had always been a long time coming. “The reason I wear Prada is not just because I like the clothes; it’s also because Miuccia has a mindset that I can relate to”, Raf stated in 2016. And with my own eyes I have seen Raf Simons saunter by in a sumptuous AW12 Prada long coat. This was star-written. For historic reference reasons, I will now note that this Q&A was part of a series of global activations to mark the moment, which included local private screenings and at-home viewing kits (including caviar, Laurent-Perrier and Prada logo napkins) as well as virtual viewing events.
So, after the show, we zoomed in on Raf in a chunky knit and sideswept bangs (“not the bayangs”), which at first glance looked just like the hair slicked down at Raf’s Jil Sander Men’s SS12 show. Miuccia had on a white pleated cotton skirt and blue sweater (her current favourite uniform), with a glass of water and a mask cinematically perched alongside her. Here’s the tea.
Opening with the remark that it felt strange to be showing without their industry friends present, Miuccia noted to be grateful to be with so many more people this time around. So, what was on her mind before this joint debut? A breakdown:
1. The relationship with technique and machines versus women: during lockdown Miuccia realised how important technology truly is.
2. The opportunity to really show the clothes.
3. The importance of sustainability and inclusivity.
As to when they decided to join forces? “One day the collaboration just happened”, Miuccia confirmed. “I never thought it could happen, but I’m extremely happy with it. We have always been interested in each other’s work and stayed in touch after Miuccia and Patrizio Bertelli asked me to join Jil Sander”, Raf could be paraphrased as replying. He has also been a fan of Prada for as long as he’s known Miuccia and her work.
The duo of legends admitted to how easy it was to work together, and Miuccia noted that perhaps it only costs a bit more energy to be going through the design process with someone else – but that it still felt very natural. I would be very surprised if they told us the experience was absolute trash and that Raf plays his new beat too loudly when Miuccia is just enjoying her morning cup of hot water (more on that later), but it is still nice to hear your faves get along. Raf: “My decision-making is strengthened when Miuccia likes what I like very much and vice versa”.
When the question was asked if anything is new anymore, Miuccia replied: “New is not so relevant anymore, perhaps due to corona, everybody has to express deep thoughts: new for the sake of doing something new doesn’t sound the most important. But it is of course what every designer is hoping to do.” While Raf looked to the youth (as he is wont to do) for what’s new: “I think, when you are in it for a few decades, it’s important to be able to refresh your own body of work. The pure definition of ‘new’ is a young generation coming in.”
After more interesting tidbits, we find out that Miuccia Prada drinks a cup of hot water first thing in the morning? I mean, she looks great at 71, but at what cost?
Then we learn that Raf thinks of the Prada customer as a community. For more than 25 years, he’s seen it as a group that has a very specific attitude, intellect and aesthetic. “You can’t define it, but it exists, clearly.” To the young ones dreaming of a fashion designer career, Miuccia promptly implored: “Study, study, study, learn, watch movies, literature, art, define which clothes make your life better, they have to be useful”, in short.
Raf proceeded to share what his uniform looks like: “Prada trousers and a shirt paired with a more extreme outerwear piece; give me coats!”. Raf also noted he prefers to be inspired by a collective subconscious. He then ended with: “Have a nice day”, so I will. Watch the full conversation following the show below.
WHAT NOW?
No news yet on when the collection will hit the (online) shelves. Next on the horizon for Rafolytes, however: the October 23 debut of Raf Simons womenswear as well as the Redux re-issue sale in December. Prada adepts can look forward to the ‘Tools of Memory’ Sotheby’s auction on October 2, featuring Rem Koolhaas set statues, AW20 pieces and unique prints. I, for one, can’t wait to see how all of this synergy travels further down the road. The excitement is most welcome.
